My Sprinkler System Isn't Working Right: A Troubleshooting Guide for Omaha Homeowners
You turned on your sprinkler system for the first time this spring and something isn't right. Maybe a zone won't fire, a head is spraying sideways, or water is pooling somewhere it definitely shouldn't be. Before you call anyone, here's a systematic way to work through the most common startup problems — and a clear guide for when it's time to hand it off to a professional.
Start Here: Rule Out the Basics
Before diagnosing zone by zone, check these first:
Make sure your main shutoff valve is fully open. It sounds obvious, but a partially open valve causes low pressure symptoms across every zone that look like multiple problems when they're actually one. Make sure your controller has power and is set to the correct date and time — a controller that lost power over winter may have reset to factory defaults and could be running on a schedule that doesn't match what you expect. Check that the rain sensor, if you have one, isn't stuck in the "off" position from last fall.
If all of those check out and you're still seeing issues, work through the zones one at a time using your controller's manual run function.
Zone Won't Turn On
If a zone simply won't run when commanded, the cause is almost always one of three things: a faulty valve solenoid, a wiring issue between the controller and the valve, or a blown fuse inside the controller.
Start at the controller. If it's showing an error code for that zone, check your controller manual — most codes point directly to an open circuit or short, which narrows it down to wiring. If the controller looks fine, head to the valve box for that zone. You can test the solenoid by manually turning it a quarter turn counterclockwise — if water flows, the solenoid is receiving no signal from the controller and the problem is electrical. If nothing happens even manually, the valve diaphragm may be failed or the solenoid itself needs replacement.
Wiring faults are common after a Nebraska winter, especially in older systems where wire connections have been spliced and buried for years. This is one of the more common repairs we handle in the spring.
Zone Won't Turn Off
A zone that keeps running after the controller tells it to stop is almost always a stuck valve diaphragm. Over time, debris can lodge in the valve and prevent it from seating properly when it closes. Sometimes the diaphragm itself tears.
The fix is usually a diaphragm replacement, which is inexpensive — but it does require shutting off the water to the system and disassembling the valve. If you're comfortable with that, replacement diaphragm kits are available at most hardware stores. If not, it's a straightforward service call.
Sprinkler Head Won't Pop Up
A head that doesn't rise when the zone runs is usually one of two things: the head is clogged with debris, or the spring mechanism inside the head is broken.
Pull the head up manually while the zone is running. If water flows normally once you lift it, the spring is weak or broken and the head needs replacement. If water flow is reduced even when lifted, there's a clog in the nozzle or the body. Remove the nozzle and rinse it out — this often fixes it immediately.
A head that's been hit by a mower or settled into the ground over winter and is now sitting too low can also fail to pop up due to soil pressure on the sides. These usually need to be dug out and reset to the correct height.
Head Is Spraying in the Wrong Direction or Not Covering the Right Area
This is one of the most common things we correct during a spring startup. Heads shift over winter due to ground movement, freeze and thaw cycles, and sometimes just foot traffic. A rotor head that's sweeping the wrong arc, or a fixed spray head pointed at your driveway instead of your lawn, is wasting water and leaving dry spots.
Most rotor heads can be adjusted with a small flat screwdriver. Fixed spray heads with adjustable nozzles can usually be rotated by hand when the zone is running. If you're not sure which type of head you have or how to adjust it, our spring startup guide covers this step by step — and we also have instructional videos available on our resources page.
Water Pooling Near the Backflow Preventer
This one warrants immediate attention. The backflow preventer is the device — usually located on the exterior of your home near where the irrigation line connects to your water supply — that prevents irrigation water from flowing back into your household drinking water.
If you see water dripping, spraying, or pooling around it after startup, it almost certainly sustained freeze damage over winter. Cracked fittings, split bodies, and failed relief valves are all common results of water that wasn't fully drained before the first hard freeze.
Do not ignore this. A compromised backflow preventer is both a water waste issue and a code compliance issue in Omaha. Repair or replacement is required. This is not a DIY fix — it requires shutting off the water supply, proper parts, and in some cases a permit depending on the device type.
Dry Spots That Aren't Near Any Visible Problem
If your lawn is showing dry patches but you can't see an obvious broken head, you likely have one of two issues: a head that's clogged and not throwing its full radius, or a broken lateral line underground.
A clogged head is easy to identify — run the zone and walk it while it's running. Any head not throwing as far as the others in the same zone is the culprit. Clean or replace the nozzle.
A broken underground line is harder to spot from the surface. Signs include an area that's consistently wet or soft even when the system hasn't run recently, or a significant pressure drop across an entire zone. If you suspect a broken line, turn the zone on and watch for water coming up through the soil in an unexpected location. This is a repair that requires digging and isn't something most homeowners should attempt on their own.
Controller Isn't Responding or Won't Program
If your controller is completely unresponsive, check the fuse first — most controllers have a small inline fuse that can blow after a power surge. Replacement fuses are a few dollars at any hardware store.
If the controller powers on but won't hold its programming, the internal battery that preserves settings during power outages has likely died. Most controllers take a standard AA or 9-volt battery for backup — replace it and reprogram your schedule.
If you're dealing with an older controller that's failing repeatedly, it may be worth considering an upgrade to a smart WiFi controller. Models like the RainBird LNK2 connect to local weather data and adjust your watering schedule automatically. Metropolitan Utilities District offers a $75 rebate on qualifying smart controller upgrades — worth factoring into the decision.
When to Stop Troubleshooting and Call Someone
Most of the issues above have a clear DIY path if you're comfortable working with your system. But there are situations where calling a professional is the right move:
Anything involving the backflow preventer. Suspected broken underground lines. Electrical faults in the wiring between the controller and valves if you're not familiar with low-voltage irrigation wiring. Any repair that requires shutting off the main water supply if you're not sure where your shutoff is or how to operate it. And honestly — any situation where you've worked through the above and still can't identify the problem.
We offer service calls throughout the Omaha metro and can usually diagnose and fix most startup issues in a single visit. If you'd rather hand the whole startup process off entirely, our Spring Startup service includes a full system inspection, zone-by-zone check, head adjustment, and controller programming — so you know everything is dialed in before the season gets going.
And if you want to make sure you never have to think about scheduling startup or winterization again, take a look at our Seasonal Care Packages — one signup covers you for the whole year.
Contact Alternate Rain to schedule a service call today, or learn more about our team and 40+ years of Omaha irrigation experience.